Bona Ventura

Walking routes · Venice

Dorsoduro: gondola yard, tramezzini and student squares

From the Accademia past the San Trovaso gondola yard and the Zattere, into the university quarter with its campi, pastry shops and Tintoretto's great hall.

Best time: Late morning to early evening

The route, stop by stop

  1. 1
    Gallerie dell'Accademia

    Venetian painting; allow 90 min if going in.

    The core collection of Venetian painting from the 1300s to the 1700s: Bellini, Giorgione's Tempest, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese's huge Feast in the House of Levi, Carpaccio.

  2. 2
    Squero di San Trovaso

    Watch the gondola yard from across the canal; 10 min.

    A historic gondola yard where gondolas are still repaired; the best view is from the opposite bank with a glass from Al Squero or gia Schiavi.

  3. 3
    Cantine del Vino gia Schiavi

    Crostini and a spritz at the counter; 20 min.

    A 19th-century wine shop and bacaro facing the San Trovaso gondola yard; the counter is lined with crostini (tuna and leek, baccala, pumpkin) at bargain prices.

  4. 4
    Zattere Promenade

    Stroll the sunny waterfront facing Giudecca; 15 min.

    The sunny southern waterfront of Dorsoduro facing Giudecca, where Venetians stroll, sit on the rafts of the cafes and watch sunsets.

  5. 5
    Bar alla Toletta

    Tramezzino lunch; 15 min.

    Old-school bar known across the city for its tramezzini, the soft crustless Venetian sandwiches, with adventurous fillings made fresh through the day.

  6. 6
    Ca' Rezzonico

    18th-century Venice palace; 60 min optional.

    The civic museum of 18th-century Venice in a Longhena palace on the Grand Canal: Tiepolo ceilings, Guardi and Longhi paintings, ballroom and Murano chandeliers.

  7. 7
    Campo Santa Margherita

    The students' campo; 15 min.

    A long, less touristy square near Ca' Foscari university with restaurants, wine bars and gelaterias reflecting local life; after dark it fills with students.

  8. 8
    Pasticceria Tonolo

    Cream puff at the counter; 10 min.

    The neighbourhood pastry shop Venetians queue at on Sunday morning, known for cream puffs and traditional Venetian sweets.

  9. 9
    San Pantalon Church

    Look up at the giant ceiling canvas; 10 min.

    A plain brick facade hides what Spotted by Locals calls the world's largest canvas painting: Fumiani's ceiling that seems to open the church to the sky. Tourists heading to the…

  10. 10
    Scuola Grande di San Rocco

    Tintoretto's cycle; 60 min.

    A confraternity hall covered floor to ceiling with more than 50 canvases by Tintoretto; the upper hall is often called Venice's Sistine Chapel.

  11. 11
    Basilica dei Frari

    Titian's Assumption; 40 min.

    The great Franciscan Gothic church holds Titian's Assumption over the high altar, his Pesaro Madonna, and a Bellini triptych in the sacristy.

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