The old fishermen's quarter the way locals eat it: cava and sandwiches at Can Paixano, the original bomba, a wood-fired bakery and the market, then the beach.
Best time: Weekday lunchtime (La Cova Fumada is a lunch place)
The route, stop by stop 1 Can Paixano (La Xampanyeria) Rose cava and a small bocadillo; 20 min.
Standing-room cava bar lined with hams, pouring house rose cava with cheap little bocadillos; loud, crammed and a Barcelona institution.
2 Museu d'Historia de Catalunya Walk past the harbour warehouses; terrace view optional.
Hands-on history of Catalonia in the 19th-century Palau de Mar warehouse; useful context for the independence flags you see on balconies.
3 Mercat de la Barceloneta Neighbourhood market; 15 min.
Rebuilt neighbourhood market for Barceloneta's residents, with fish stalls and simple bars; far calmer than the Boqueria.
4 La Cova Fumada Bombas and sardines; 45 min.
Unmarked family bar credited with inventing the bomba (spicy meat-and-potato ball); fishermen and neighbours eat here at lunchtime.
5 Baluard Barceloneta Bread or pastry for later; 10 min.
Anna Bellsola's wood-fired bakery beside the Barceloneta market; the bread Barceloneta families queue for.
6 Barceloneta beach (Platja de Sant Miquel) Swim or sit; keep bags in sight.
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