The painted Wall along the Spree, then up Warschauer Strasse to Friedrichshain's village square, with croissants, a butcher's canteen and Georgian dumplings.
Best time: Saturday or Sunday morning (Boxhagener Platz markets)
The route, stop by stop 1 East Side Gallery Walk the painted Wall from Ostbahnhof towards the Oberbaum Bridge; 45 min.
The longest surviving stretch of the Wall (about 1.3 km), painted by international artists in 1990, including the Brezhnev-Honecker kiss.
2 Etwas Kleines Croissant stop on Warschauer Strasse; 15 min.
Tiny croissant boutique (fits about four waiting customers) with classic, ham-and-cheese, pistachio and miso-caramel croissants and good coffee.
3 Domke Niko Goulash in a butcher's canteen; 40 min.
A butcher's shop that doubles as a canteen: huge plates of goulash, schnitzel, homemade sausages and pork knuckle at prices locals call unbeatable.
4 Boxhagener Platz markets Sat farmers' market or Sun flea market; 45 min.
Friedrichshain's village green: a farmers' market on Saturdays and a flea market on Sundays that for locals has become a weekly ritual.
5 Bob Murphy Coffee window on a quiet street; 15 min.
A coffee window on a quiet residential street where the baristas know regulars' orders; croissants and cookies, outdoor tables only.
6 Khinkali House Georgian dinner on Simon-Dach-Strasse.
Georgian dumplings made to order and cheese-and-egg acharuli khachapuri, on a street where locals say quality is otherwise hit and miss.
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