Bona Ventura

Walking routes · Budapest

Felhévíz: rose hill, Gül Baba's tomb and the Ottoman baths

From the Buda end of Margaret Bridge up Budapest's steepest cobbled street to the rose-garden tomb of Gül Baba, then down to the 'hot springs' quarter (Felhévíz) for a swim at Lukács, the locals' bath, or a soak under the Ottoman dome of Veli Bej. Short in distance, long in time. No overlap with the existing routes.

Best time: Afternoon, Tuesday to Sunday: the tomb closes Mondays, and Veli Bej's afternoon session starts at 15:00; Tuesday the Lukács stays open to 22:00. Walking only takes about 30 minutes; the time goes on the baths

The route, stop by stop

  1. 1
    Gül Baba utca

    One of the few medieval residential streets left in Buda, one of the steepest in the city and still cobbled. It climbs straight up the slope, bends beside the tomb and ends in a short flight of steps to Vérhalom utca. 10 min.

  2. 2
    Tomb of Gül Baba

    Octagonal 16th-century tomb of the Bektashi dervish Gül Baba, 'father of roses', who came to Buda with the Ottoman army in 1541; restored with Turkish funding and reopened in October 2018, set in a rose garden with views over the Danube. Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00, closed Mon. 30 min.

    The 16th-century octagonal tomb of Gül Baba, a Bektashi dervish who died in Buda in 1541, built by the Ottoman governor Mehmed Pasha. It is the northernmost Islamic pilgrimage…

  3. 3
    Lukács Thermal Bath

    Down the hill to Frankel Leó út 25-29: the bath locals use, with thermal pools at 32, 36 and 40 °C and a 24 °C plunge pool. Tuesday is its late night (open to 22:00). It has a drinking hall for the thermal water. 2 h if you swim.

    A thermal bath used since at least the 12th century, when the Knights Hospitaller ran it; a wall of an Ottoman powder mill survives inside. A day ticket costs about half the…

  4. 4
    Veli Bej Baths

    Round the corner at Árpád fejedelem útja 7, inside the Brothers Hospitallers' hospital: a restored 16th-century Ottoman bath under domes with capped visitor numbers. Afternoon/evening sessions (Mon-Tue 15:00-21:00; Wed-Sun 06:00-12:00 and 15:00-21:00 per Offbeat Budapest). 90 min.

    A 16th-century Ottoman bath hidden inside a hospital, restored with domes and modern saunas. Visitor numbers are capped, so it stays quiet and cheap compared with the famous baths.

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