Bona Ventura

Mouraria · Lisbon

Leitaria Moderna

Street foodLocals' pick

Open since 1924, it is the last old-style leitaria in Mouraria and the bairro's meeting point. Neighbours call it 'a Celeste' after the owner, and regulars asked her never to change the 1970s look.

Address
R. de S. Cristóvão 37, 1100-514 Lisboa, Portugal
Hours
Opens about 07:00-07:30; hours vary by day (Google via Wanderlog, 2026-09); check before going
Best time to go
Morning · About 20 min
Price
Soup EUR 1.50, rissóis and bolinhos de bacalhau EUR 1.50, tosta mista EUR 3, imperial EUR 1.20 (NiT, Nov 2024)
Price level
€

Open in Google Maps

Details can change. Check hours and prices before you go.

Good to know

  • Go early: builders and hairdressers have breakfast first, then the retired neighbours arrive for torrada and galão.
  • Sunday is canja day.
  • At the end of the day the men gather for an imperial or a tacinha of wine.

Nearby

The Bona Ventura app

Plans your days, reads the walks aloud, finds what is open near you and works offline.

Coming soon to iPhone and Android.