From the Edo daimyo garden of Koishikawa Korakuen, up the slope from Iidabashi past the red Zenkoku-ji, into the cobbled Hyogo Yokocho and Kakurenbo Yokocho where ryotei restaurants hide behind black walls, to Kengo Kuma's renovated Akagi Shrine.
Best time: Late afternoon into evening; the main slope is closed to cars daily 12:00-13:00 and 12:00-19:00 on Sundays and holidays.
The route, stop by stop
- 1Koishikawa Korakuen
Early Edo-period daimyo garden, one of three that survive with Rikugien and Hama-rikyu; 300 yen, 9:00-17:00. 45 min
- 2Iidabashi Station
Cross to the bottom of the Kagurazaka slope, just outside the old outer moat of Edo Castle. 5 min
- 3Kakurenbo Yokocho
'Hide-and-seek alley', a stone-paved lane of ryotei restaurants with discreet signs and noren curtains. 10 min
- 4Bishamonten Zenkoku-ji
Red temple of Bishamonten, the symbol of Kagurazaka since the 18th century. 10 min
- 5Hyogo Yokocho
The oldest-feeling alley: cobbles and black wooden walls of the Edo period. 15 min
- 6Tsukudo Hachiman Shrine
Shrine a short detour north of the main street. 10 min
- 7Akagi Shrine
Edo-period shrine rebuilt in wood and glass by Kengo Kuma, with a cafe on site. 20 min
- 8Kagurazaka Station
End at the Tozai Line station on Waseda-dori, uphill from Akagi Shrine. 0 min
More walks in Tokyo
- Yanaka and Nezu: old Tokyo from Nippori to Nezu Shrine
- Asakusa back streets to Kappabashi and Kuramae
- Basho's Fukagawa: Morishita to Kiyosumi Garden and the art museum
- Nihonbashi to Ningyocho: merchant Tokyo
- Shibuya to Meiji Jingu via Cat Street
- Nakameguro to Ebisu via Daikanyama
- Imperial Palace East Gardens to Yurakucho's under-track bars
- Jimbocho book town to Kanda Myojin
- Shibamata: Tora-san's town to the Edo River ferry
- Mount Takao Trail 1: Takaosanguchi to the summit
