A downhill loop through six squares of the old Vila de Gracia: the bench sculpture of the architect who laid out the area, the church square, Rodoreda's Placa del Diamant and the clock-tower square, then Berenguer's iron market and Gaudi's Casa Vicens.
Best time: Late morning, when the market is busy, or early evening when the squares fill with neighbours
The route, stop by stop
- 1Placa de Rovira i Trias
Named since 1861 after Antoni Rovira i Trias, the architect who laid out this part of Gracia; Joaquim Camps' sculpture 'A Rovira i Trias' sits among the stone benches. Locals call it the 'Placa dels Tres Senyors'. 10 min.
- 2Plaça de la Virreina
Laid out in 1878 by Josep Artigas i Ramoneda, with plane trees and stone benches around the church of Sant Joan (finished 1884); named after the vanished summer palace of Viceroy Manuel d'Amat's widow. 10 min.
- 3Placa del Diamant
The square of Merce Rodoreda's novel, with a statue of its heroine, La Colometa. Works in 1992 found Civil War air-raid shelter no. 232 twelve metres below, built for about 200 people. 10 min.
- 4Placa de la Revolucio de Setembre de 1868
Long square named after the September 1868 revolution, a spot for a bench break. 10 min.
- 5Placa del Sol
A square dating from around 1840, ringed by terraces. 10 min.
- 6Placa de la Vila de Gracia
The old town square and district seat; the octagonal clock tower (Campanar de Gracia), designed by Antoni Rovira i Trias in the 1860s, carries a four-faced clock and the bell called 'la Marieta'. Renamed from Placa de Rius i Taulet only in 2009. 10 min.
- 7Mercat de la Llibertat
Iron-and-glass Modernista market by Francesc Berenguer i Mestres: first stone 1888, opened 1893. 20 min.
- 8Casa Vicens
Carrer de les Carolines 18-24: the family house designed by Antoni Gaudi; see the facade from the street or book a visit. 15-60 min.
More walks in Barcelona
- Gothic Quarter and El Born: Roman walls to Santa Maria del Mar
- Modernisme mile: Passeig de Gracia to Sant Pau
- Montjuic: museums, gardens and a sea-view castle
- Food grazing: Sant Antoni market to Carrer de Blai
- Gracia squares to the Bunkers del Carmel
- Barceloneta bites: cava, bombas and the sea
- Hidden Modernisme of the Dreta de l'Eixample: Jujol to Puig i Cadafalch
- Poblenou: textile mills of Pere IV to the Rambla and the old cemetery
- Sant Andreu de Palomar: old village core, mills and the Casa Bloc
