Campo Grande museums and Alvalade tascas: a walk in Lisbon

A residential Lisbon most visitors never see: two city museums in Campo Grande, then the neighbourhood tascas and snail bars of Alvalade.

Best time: Thursday (cozido day) from late morning

The route, stop by stop

1
Museum of Lisbon - Pimenta Palace
City history museum and peacock garden; 60 min.
The city's own history museum in an 18th-century country house; the model of pre-earthquake Lisbon shows what was lost in 1755, and peacocks roam the garden. Locals bring…
2
Bordalo Pinheiro Museum
Caricatures and cabbage-leaf ceramics; 40 min.
Dedicated to the 19th-century caricaturist and ceramicist whose cabbage-leaf plates and swallow figures are still made today. Bordalo's ceramics are in many Portuguese homes…
3
Os Courenses
Thursday cozido lunch; 60 min.
A residential-area restaurant that Time Out singles out for cozido à portuguesa, the boiled meats-and-vegetables feast traditionally served on Thursdays.
4
Tico Tico
Croquetes and a beer; 30 min.
A traditional cervejaria off the tourist radar where locals order meat croquettes, clams bulhão pato, octopus and a prego to close.
5
Pomar de Alvalade
Caracóis on the terrace in summer; 30 min.
The place locals name for caracóis, small snails in garlic-oregano broth eaten on the terrace with cold beer and football on TV in summer.