Baixa-Chiado food grazing: bifanas, tins, pastries and the market: a walk in Lisbon

A grazing walk through the everyday snack culture of downtown: a bifana at the counter, gizzards off Rossio, a croquete at a 1936 bar, custard tarts hot from the oven, a kiosk drink at a viewpoint and a finish in the Ribeira market hall.

Best time: Late morning to mid-afternoon, Monday to Saturday

The route, stop by stop

1
As Bifanas do Afonso
Bifana with mustard at the counter; 15 min.
A stand-up counter serving the classic Lisbon bifana, thin pork marinated in wine and garlic in a soft roll; where office workers grab a fast lunch.
2
Conserveira de Lisboa
1930 tinned-fish shop; 15 min.
A 1930 tinned-fish shop with its original counter, wrapping tins of its own Tricana, Prata do Mar and Minor brands in paper; one of the oldest shops of its kind in the city…
3
A Merendinha do Arco Bandeira
Moelas with bread under the arch; 15 min.
A tiny snack counter under the arch off Rossio where Lisboetas eat moelas (gizzards in tomato sauce) with bread in the late afternoon.
4
Gambrinus
Croquete and a draught beer at the bar; 20 min.
An untouched 1936 dining room with white tablecloths and tableside crêpes suzette; locals stand at the bar for a croquete and a draught beer.
5
Manteigaria (Chiado)
Pastel de nata straight from the oven; 10 min.
A custard-tart-only bakery where tarts come out of the oven all day; many Lisboetas rate it above Belém.
6
Quiosque do Adamastor
Kiosk drink at the Santa Catarina viewpoint; 20 min.
A gazebo kiosk at the Santa Catarina viewpoint where young Lisboetas gather at sunset with beer and empadas facing the river and the bridge.
7
Time Out Market Lisboa
Ribeira market food hall; start at Manteigaria Silva; 45 min.
A curated food hall in the 19th-century Ribeira market with stalls from well-known Lisbon chefs and bakeries under one roof.

Walking directions

Baixa-Chiado food grazing: bifanas, tins, pastries and the market

The route, stop by stop

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