Flea market, pantheon and the highest viewpoint: a walk in Lisbon

The eastern hills that locals still live in: the flea market, two great domes and cloisters, then up to Senhora do Monte and a Graça dinner.

Best time: Tuesday or Saturday morning (Feira da Ladra days)

The route, stop by stop

1
Feira da Ladra flea market
Browse the stalls; 45 min.
Lisbon's flea market, dating to the 13th century, where locals sell antiques, azulejos, vinyl and plain junk every Tuesday and Saturday.
2
National Pantheon
Dome terrace view; 45 min.
The domed church of Santa Engrácia, famous for taking almost 300 years to finish; the terrace around the dome gives a 360-degree view over Alfama and the river.
3
Monastery of São Vicente de Fora
Azulejo cloisters and roof; 45 min.
A Renaissance monastery whose cloisters are lined with 18th-century azulejos, including panels illustrating La Fontaine's fables, with the Braganza royal pantheon and a roof…
4
Miradouro da Senhora do Monte
The highest viewpoint; 20 min.
The highest viewpoint in the old city, facing the castle, Baixa and the river. Lisboetas come at sunset with a drink; many tourists stop lower down at Graça or Santa Luzia and…
5
Tasca Pete
Small plates and natural wine in Graça (evening).
A tiny counter place on a steep cobbled street that feels like eating at a friend's; small plates and natural wine. The crowd is mostly neighbourhood regulars.
6
A Taberna do Mar
Alternative dinner: sardine nigiri on Calçada da Graça.
A tiny tiled tavern mixing Japanese technique with Portuguese fish: grilled sardine nigiri, sardine flan.