Aventine, Testaccio and Ostiense: a walk in Rome

From the Circus Maximus up the Aventine gardens, down into working-class Testaccio for a market lunch, then to the power-station museum.

Best time: Morning (Testaccio market closes early afternoon and all day Sunday)

The route, stop by stop

1
Circus Maximus
Grassy track of the ancient circus; 10 min.
2
Giardino degli Aranci
Orange-tree garden with a view to St Peter's; 15 min.
3
Knights of Malta keyhole
Peek through the gate at St Peter's; 10 min, queue at weekends.
4
Mordi e Vai
Lunch at Testaccio market; 30 min.
Market stall selling panini filled with Roman offal and braises, such as beef brisket (allesso di scottona) and tripe.
5
Non-Catholic Cemetery
Keats and Shelley's graves under the Pyramid; 30 min.
Shaded cemetery under the Pyramid of Cestius where Keats, Shelley and Gramsci are buried, with a resident colony of cats. Romans come here for quiet.
6
Pyramid of Cestius
12 BC pyramid tomb; 5 min.
7
Centrale Montemartini
Statues among turbines; 60 min.
Classical statues from the Capitoline collections set among the diesel engines and turbines of Rome's first power station. Locals love it for the contrast; tourists rarely leave…