Bona Ventura

Walking routes · Rome

Monti and Celio: mosaics and layered churches

A church crawl that most visitors skip: early Christian mosaics, Michelangelo's Moses, the three-level San Clemente and the quiet Celio hill.

Best time: Morning (many churches close 12:00-15:00)

The route, stop by stop

  1. 1
    Santa Maria Maggiore

    5th-century nave mosaics; 20 min.

    One of the four papal basilicas, with 5th-century nave mosaics that are among the oldest in Rome; the burial place of Pope Francis (2025).

  2. 2
    Santa Prassede

    Chapel of San Zeno mosaics; 15 min.

    Hidden down a side lane behind Santa Maria Maggiore: the Chapel of San Zeno is lined floor-to-ceiling with 9th-century gold Byzantine mosaics.

  3. 3
    San Pietro in Vincoli

    Michelangelo's Moses; 15 min.

    Michelangelo's horned Moses on the tomb of Julius II and the chains said to have bound St Peter, five minutes uphill from the Colosseum.

  4. 4
    Basilica of San Clemente

    Excavations down three levels; 45 min.

    Three layers of history stacked vertically: a 12th-century basilica, a 4th-century church below it and a 1st-century Roman house and Mithraic temple at the bottom, with running…

  5. 5
    Santi Quattro Coronati

    Cloister and Oratory of San Silvestro; 25 min.

    A fortified medieval convent with a quiet Cosmatesque cloister and the Oratory of San Silvestro, whose 1246 frescoes tell the Constantine legend. Tourists walk past it between…

  6. 6
    Santo Stefano Rotondo

    Circular church with martyrdom frescoes; 15 min.

    A 5th-century circular church ringed with 16th-century frescoes of martyrdoms, graphic enough to be startling. It sits on a quiet street on the Celio away from the main circuits.

  7. 7
    Case Romane del Celio

    Roman houses under Santi Giovanni e Paolo; 40 min if open.

    Some 20 rooms of Roman houses under the Basilica of Santi Giovanni e Paolo, with painted walls from the 2nd to 4th centuries. It is less known than the Colosseum 5 minutes away.

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