The quiet northern rim of Cannaregio, north of the bars of the Misericordia: Tiepolo at Sant'Alvise, Tintoretto's church and grave, the Sansovino scuola that was a basketball gym for 77 years, and the long lagoon quay where Titian lived.
Best time: Afternoon on a clear day (for the Dolomites from Fondamente Nove)
The route, stop by stop
- 1Sant'Alvise
Look up at the barco, the hanging nuns' choir behind iron grilles across the entrance wall. Under it, eight small biblical panels now given to Lazzaro Bastiani (Ruskin thought they were a young Carpaccio). Three Tiepolo canvases of the Passion (1737-1740), including the Climb to Calvary by the altar. 15 min.
- 2Madonna dell'Orto
Officially San Cristoforo, but known by the miraculous statue of the Virgin found in a sculptor's vegetable garden (orto) and carried into the church on 18 June 1377. Ten canvases by Tintoretto, who lived and worked round the corner and is buried in the chapel to the right of the main altar. The campo in front keeps its old brick paving. 30 min.
- 3Campo dei Mori
The little square where Tintoretto lived and worked, a few steps from Madonna dell'Orto. 5 min.
- 4Scuola Grande della Misericordia
Jacopo Sansovino's design was chosen in 1531 and still lacked its roof and floors in 1570. From 1914 to 1991 the upper hall was the Reyer basketball club's court, with wooden stands for 1,000 people; restored by 2015 as an events venue. See it from the Fondamenta de l'Abazia. 10 min. Row Venice's rowing lessons start from the nearby Sacca de la Misericordia.
- 5Chiesa dei Gesuiti (Santa Maria Assunta)
The Jesuits bought the old Crociferi complex for 50,000 ducats after their return in 1657 and rebuilt the church from 1715. 20 min.
- 6Fondamente Nove
About 1 km of stone quay built from 1589 on reclaimed lagoon, facing the cemetery island of San Michele and Murano. On clear days you see the Dolomites; Titian lived here from 1531 to 1576 to look at his native mountains (a plaque marks the spot). Boats for the northern lagoon leave from here. 15 min.
More walks in Venice
- Rialto market and bacaro crawl (food grazing walk)
- Dorsoduro: gondola yard, tramezzini and student squares
- Cannaregio evening: Ghetto to the Misericordia canals
- Castello: Arsenale, Via Garibaldi and the local east end
- San Marco classics without the queues
- Northern lagoon island hop: San Michele, Murano, Burano, Mazzorbo, Torcello
- Castello's far east: San Pietro to the Sant'Elena pines
- Giudecca end to end: the Zitelle to the Stucky mill
- Dorsoduro's west end: the Nicolotti parish, Veronese and the bridge of fists
- Sant'Erasmo and Vignole: the lagoon's vegetable garden by boat and bike
