Dorsoduro's west end: the Nicolotti parish, Veronese and the bridge of fists: a walk in Venice

The old fishermen's end of Dorsoduro, away from the Accademia crowds: two of the city's oldest parishes, Veronese's own church, the bridge where the two halves of Venice fought, and Tiepolo's ceiling on the Zattere.

Best time: Morning, when the churches are open and the Zattere are in sun

The route, stop by stop

1
San Nicolò dei Mendicoli
One of the oldest churches in Venice, probably first built in the 7th century, in a parish of fishermen and craftsmen. Home of the Nicolotti, who fought the Castellani of San Pietro di Castello. The name comes either from the old island name Mendigola or from the poor (mendici) who lived here. 15 min.
A Veneto-Byzantine church at the far western tip of Dorsoduro, in the old fishermen's quarter of the Nicolotti faction. Venice in Peril restored it in the 1970s, raising the…
2
Angelo Raffaele
By tradition one of eight churches founded by St Magnus in the 7th century; burned in 899, 1106 and 1149 and rebuilt each time. Above the door Tobias walks with the angel; the organ loft is painted with the Stories of Tobias attributed to Gianantonio Guardi. Use the side door, the one locals use. 15 min.
A parish church in the far west of Dorsoduro whose organ loft is painted with the Story of Tobias, attributed to Gianantonio Guardi: one of the freshest Rococo works in Venice…
3
San Sebastiano
Paolo Veronese painted almost the whole interior: the sacristy ceiling, the nave ceiling with the Stories of Esther, the organ doors and the high altar. He and his brother Benedetto are buried here, near the organ. A Chorus Venezia church. 30 min.
A 16th-century church near the Giudecca Canal that houses a cycle of paintings by Paolo Veronese, along with works by Tintoretto and Titian. It is one of the five votive churches…
4
Ponte dei Pugni
The 'bridge of fists': from September to Christmas the Castellani and Nicolotti fought on it, first champions then the crowd, on a bridge with no railings. The white footprints in Istrian stone mark where the champions stood. Banned in 1705 after knives appeared. 5 min.
5
Campo San Barnaba
The church's exterior played the library in Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade; Indy climbs out of a manhole in the middle of the campo. 10 min.
6
Gesuati (Santa Maria del Rosario), Zattere
Giorgio Massari's church (design 1724) on the Zattere. Giambattista Tiepolo frescoed the ceiling in 1737-1739 with the Institution of the Rosary; Piazzetta and Tiepolo altarpieces in the side chapels. 20 min.

Walking directions

Dorsoduro's west end: the Nicolotti parish, Veronese and the bridge of fists

The route, stop by stop

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