South from the 1596 Spanish gate along the old road to Rome, through the gin distillery turned art campus at Largo Isarco, into the Parco della Vettabbia, farmland the Cistercians drained from the 12th century, to the abbey St Bernard founded in 1135 with its tower nicknamed the Ciribiciaccola, and its mill.
Best time: Saturday or Sunday, when the abbey's shop and refreshment point are open all day (09:00-18:00); avoid Monday
The route, stop by stop
- 1Arco di Porta Romana
Piazza Medaglie d'Oro. The monumental arch was built in 1596 for the entry of Margaret of Austria, bride of Philip III of Spain, on the line of the Spanish walls; it sits on the ancient road to Rome. 10 min.
- 2Fondazione Prada
Largo Isarco 2. Opened 9 May 2015: OMA / Rem Koolhaas converted an early-1900s gin distillery and added three buildings, including the Torre. Bar Luce, designed by Wes Anderson to evoke old Milan, is inside. Opening hours and prices not verified (official site blocked). 60-90 min.
- 3Parco della Vettabbia
Part of the Parco Agricolo Sud Milano, named after the Vettabbia canal that crosses it. The land was reclaimed and farmed by the Chiaravalle monks from the 12th century; its first stretch is called the Valle dei Monaci, on a path that links Milan to the Via Francigena. Birds of prey, foxes and owls are often seen. 30 min.
- 4Chiaravalle Abbey and Mill
Via Sant'Arialdo 102. Cistercian monastery founded by St Bernard of Clairvaux in 1135, five km from Porta Romana; tradition says Grana Padano cheese was born here in 1135. Look up at the crossing tower, the Ciribiciaccola. The monks' shop and refreshment point open Tue-Fri 09:00-12:00 and 15:00-18:00, Sat-Sun 09:00-18:00, closed Monday. 45 min.
- 5Mulino di Chiaravalle
The abbey mill beside the monastery, open for guided visits and workshops for groups and schools (booked through the monastery). Back to town: bus 77 stops in front of the abbey and runs to Corvetto (M3) and Brenta (M3). 10 min.
More walks in Milan
- Duomo to Brera: the classic centre
- Castello, Parco Sempione and the Arco della Pace
- Leonardo and old Milan: Magenta and Sant'Ambrogio
- Ticinese and Navigli food-grazing walk
- New Milan and Chinatown: Porta Nuova, Isola and Via Sarpi
- Porta Venezia Liberty and the Quadrilatero del Silenzio
- NoLo and Via Padova: Piazzale Loreto to Parco Trotter
- Isola to the Martesana canal: Sacro Volto to Gorla
- Lambrate to the Ortica: the OR.ME murals of 20th-century Milan
