Multicultural Grønland, the free Intercultural Museum and botanic garden, then up to the wooden-house hills of Kampen and Vålerenga, where tourists rarely go.
Coffee and pastry at the Bib Gourmand bakery-cafe; 20 min.
Oslo's Bib Gourmand for value: sourdough and pastries by day, pie and mash or Norwegian-leaning plates at night, and a Sunday roast that locals book for.