Marais mansions, falafel and markets: a walk in Paris

Through the Marais from Hôtel de Ville past Jewish Pletzl, Place des Vosges and free museums in 17th-century hôtels particuliers, ending at the oldest covered market.

Best time: Sunday (shops open, rue des Rosiers busy) or weekday late morning; museums closed Mon or Tue

The route, stop by stop

1
Hôtel de Ville
City hall facade, 5 min.
2
L'As du Fallafel
Lunch stop on rue des Rosiers (closed Sat).
Marais institution for pita falafel with fried aubergine, cabbage and tahini; the takeaway window line moves fast.
3
Maison de Victor Hugo
Place des Vosges arcades and Hugo's apartment (free), 30 min.
Free museum in Hugo's apartment on Place des Vosges, with his own designed Chinese salon and drawings; the courtyard tea room opens onto the square.
4
Musée Carnavalet – History of Paris
Free history of Paris museum, 60 min.
Free city-history museum in two Marais mansions: shop signs, Revolution relics, Proust's bedroom and Fouquet's Art Nouveau jewellery shop by Mucha reassembled whole.
5
Musée Cognacq-Jay
Free 18th-century art, 30 min.
Free museum of 18th-century art (Fragonard, Boucher, Watteau, snuffboxes) in the Hôtel Donon, collected by the founders of La Samaritaine; quiet even when the Marais is packed.
6
Musée National Picasso-Paris
Picasso collection, 60-90 min (paid).
The largest public Picasso collection, drawn from the artist's own estate, shown in the 17th-century Hôtel Salé.
7
Musée des Archives nationales – Hôtel de Soubise
Rococo apartments and Archives garden, 20 min.
Rococo apartments of the Prince and Princess of Soubise with Boucher overdoors, plus the rose garden of the National Archives, a free garden few visitors enter.
8
Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature
Hunting and nature museum, 45 min.
Offbeat museum of hunting and animals in two 17th-century mansions, mixing old masters, taxidermy and contemporary art; overlooked by most Marais visitors.
9
Marché des Enfants Rouges
Market food stalls; closed Mon.
Paris's oldest covered market (1628), now mostly food stalls: Moroccan tagines, Japanese bento, Lebanese mezze and French crêpes at shared tables.

Walking directions

Marais mansions, falafel and markets

The route, stop by stop

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