The old heart of Rio around Praça XV, where the Portuguese court lived from 1808: the viceroys' palace, the old cathedral, the Arco do Teles lane, the Art Deco Banco do Brasil cultural centre, the Candelária church and the Benedictine monastery on its hill.
Best time: A weekday from midday (the Paço Imperial opens at 12:00 and is closed on Mondays; the CCBB is closed on Tuesdays). Centro empties at night and at weekends.
The route, stop by stop
- 1Praça XV
The square by Guanabara Bay, flanked by the Paço Imperial and the Tiradentes Palace; the ferry terminal is on its waterfront. 10 min
- 2Paço Imperial
18th-century governors' house, then royal palace of King John VI from 1808 and the emperors' workplace; now a cultural centre with free exhibitions (Tue-Sun 12:00-18:00 per its Google listing, Sept 2026). 30 min
- 3Old Cathedral (Antiga Sé)
Carmelite church that served as Rio's cathedral and as royal and imperial chapel from about 1808 to 1976; look inside if a service is not on. 15 min
- 4Arco do Teles
The arch that survives from the luxury houses judge Antônio Telles Barreto had built to rent after the Paço was finished in 1743; later part of the city council building and the stage of many urban legends. 10 min
- 5Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil (CCBB)
Art Deco bank building, a cultural centre since 1989 and among the world's hundred most visited art venues; check the free and paid shows on its listings (closed Tuesdays per its Google listing). 45 min
- 6Igreja da Candelária
Built 1775 to the late 19th century: Portuguese Baroque façade, Neoclassical and Neo-Renaissance interior. 20 min
- 7São Bento Monastery
Benedictine monastery begun in 1633 on its own hill, one of Brazil's key colonial monuments, with a gilded church; still a working monastery (open daily 06:30-18:30 per its Google listing). 30 min
More walks in Rio de Janeiro
- Pequena África and the port: Valongo, Pedra do Sal and Morro da Conceição
- Cinelândia to Lapa: belle époque avenues, the aqueduct and the Selarón steps
- Santa Teresa by bonde and on foot
- Glória, Catete and the Aterro do Flamengo
- Urca: Praia Vermelha, the Cláudio Coutinho path and the Mureta at sunset
- Leme to Arpoador along Copacabana beach
- Ipanema to Leblon: bossa nova streets and the Mirante
- Parque Lage, the Botanical Garden and the Lagoa
- Tijuca Forest: Cascatinha and the Mayrink chapel
- Laranjeiras and Cosme Velho: Parque Guinle to the Corcovado train
- Niterói by ferry: Caminho Niemeyer to the MAC
