The hilltop bairro that kept Rio's last tram: ride the bonde over the Arcos da Lapa, then walk between the ruins of Laurinda Santos Lobo's mansion, Castro Maya's modernist house-museum, the bar-lined Largo dos Guimarães and the small square of Largo das Neves.
Best time: Wednesday to Saturday from late morning, when the Chácara do Céu museum is open (Wed-Sat 10:00-16:30 per its Google listing, Sept 2026). Ride the bonde up from Estação Carioca and walk back down the hill.
The route, stop by stop
- 1Museu do Bonde (Estação Carioca)
The bonde leaves from Estação Carioca in Centro (BRL 20 return); the small Museu do Bonde is on Rua Lélio Gama. 15 min
- 2Largo do Curvelo
Square a short walk from the Parque das Ruínas and the Chácara do Céu. 5 min
- 3Parque das Ruínas (Parque Glória Maria)
Municipal park and cultural centre in the ruins of the mansion of Laurinda Santos Lobo, belle époque patron of the arts, now renamed Parque Glória Maria; an award-winning project kept the ruins and added a contemporary structure. 30 min
- 4Chácara do Céu Museum
Raymundo Castro Maya's 1950s modernist house with his art collection and two rooms kept as he lived in them, in gardens with a wide city view. 60 min
- 5Largo dos Guimarães
Santa Teresa's best-known square, with a bonde stop on Rua Almirante Alexandrino. 30 min
- 6Centro Cultural Laurinda Santos Lobo
Cultural centre in an old mansion at Rua Monte Alegre 306. 20 min
- 7Largo das Neves
Quiet square at the end of the Paula Mattos tram branch (reopened in 2025). 15 min
More walks in Rio de Janeiro
- Praça XV to São Bento: the colonial and imperial centre
- Pequena África and the port: Valongo, Pedra do Sal and Morro da Conceição
- Cinelândia to Lapa: belle époque avenues, the aqueduct and the Selarón steps
- Glória, Catete and the Aterro do Flamengo
- Urca: Praia Vermelha, the Cláudio Coutinho path and the Mureta at sunset
- Leme to Arpoador along Copacabana beach
- Ipanema to Leblon: bossa nova streets and the Mirante
- Parque Lage, the Botanical Garden and the Lagoa
- Tijuca Forest: Cascatinha and the Mayrink chapel
- Laranjeiras and Cosme Velho: Parque Guinle to the Corcovado train
- Niterói by ferry: Caminho Niemeyer to the MAC
