The flat grid of avenues north of Saldanha holds an Art Nouveau painter's house, a pastelaria from 1922, the neo-Moorish bullring of 1892, a modernist church of the 1930s and the Gulbenkian Foundation, whose concrete headquarters (a national monument since 2010) stand in a garden by Gonçalo Ribeiro Telles. Start: Metro Saldanha (Red and Yellow lines). End: Metro São Sebastião (Blue and Red lines) or Praça de Espanha (Blue line).
Best time: Any day except Tuesday (the Gulbenkian closes on Tuesdays) and Monday (state museums close); on Saturdays under-30s get into the Gulbenkian free from 18:00 to 21:00
The route, stop by stop
- 1Anastácio Gonçalves House Museum
Built 1904-1905 by Norte Júnior for the painter José Malhoa, an Art Nouveau house that won the Valmor architecture prize; a house-museum since 1980 (EUR 5, MMP 2026 price list). Lisbon Lux singles out its façade. 10 min outside, 45 min inside.
- 2Pastelaria Versailles
Avenida da República 15A: opened on 25 November 1922 by Salvador Antunes, trained in French pâtisserie and a lover of Art Nouveau; the building is listed (Imóvel de Interesse Público, 1996). Stop for a coffee and cake. 30 min.
- 3Praça de Touros do Campo Pequeno
Up Avenida da República: Lisbon's bullring, opened in 1892 to a neo-Moorish design by José Dias da Silva, with domes and horseshoe arches; today also a concert and event venue for about 9,000 people. 15 min.
- 4Church of Our Lady of Fátima
Avenida de Berna: Lisbon's landmark modernist church, designed by Pardal Monteiro (1934), with paintings by José de Almada Negreiros (1938) among the works of the leading artists of the day. 15 min.
- 5Calouste Gulbenkian Museum
Calouste Gulbenkian's collection in the Foundation's concrete headquarters. Museum EUR 16 (includes the CAM collection), all-inclusive EUR 18; 10:00-18:00, Saturday to 21:00, closed Tuesday. 90 min.
- 6Gulbenkian Garden
Officially Parque de Santa Gertrudes, designed by Gonçalo Ribeiro Telles: 'many locals had their first kiss on its lawns' (Lisbon Lux), and it is still one of the city's favourite oases. 30 min.
More walks in Lisbon
- Baixa to the castle through the old Sé quarter
- Belém riverside: monastery, tower and custard tarts
- Baixa-Chiado food grazing: bifanas, tins, pastries and the market
- Flea market, pantheon and the highest viewpoint
- Chiado to Príncipe Real at sunset
- Campo Grande museums and Alvalade tascas
- Estrela garden to Prazeres cemetery on the tram 28 line
- Mouraria to Intendente: the cradle of fado and Lisbon's most multicultural streets
- Príncipe Real to Amoreiras: gardens, cisterns and the end of the aqueduct
- Janelas Verdes, Madragoa and São Bento: the varinas' quarter between the river and Parliament
- Xabregas, Beato and Marvila: palaces, convents and factories of the eastern riverside
