East out of the Aurelian Walls at Porta Maggiore, along the zigzag of Via del Pigneto with its market and pedestrian strip, past the bar that has served the district since 1924, in the area where Pasolini filmed Accattone. It then heads south to the Casilina and Constantine's mausoleum for his mother Helena in Torpignattara.
Best time: Late afternoon into aperitivo time, when Via del Pigneto fills up; or a weekday morning for the market
The route, stop by stop
- 1Porta Maggiore and the Tomb of Eurysaces
The tomb of the freed slave and baker Marcus Vergilius Eurysaces, late Republic, with a frieze showing bread-making, sits just outside the gate. It was hidden inside a tower of the Aurelian Wall until 1838. 10 min.
- 2Mercato del Pigneto
Neighbourhood market at the west end of Via del Pigneto, the street that zigzags from near Porta Maggiore into the district. 10 min.
- 3Pigneto station (Metro C)
Metro C stop on Via del Pigneto, handy for getting here or leaving. 2 min.
- 4Via del Pigneto pedestrian zone
The pedestrian stretch of Via del Pigneto (an isola pedonale since 2015), lined with bars and small restaurants. The district was the set for Pasolini's Accattone (1961) and many other Roman films. 20 min.
- 5Necci dal 1924
Via Fanfulla da Lodi 68: the district's historic bar, in business since 1924 as its name says. A Roman hypogeum was uncovered beneath it. Stop for a coffee or an aperitivo. 20 min.
- 6Mausoleum of Helena (Tor Pignattara)
Via Casilina, at the 3rd mile of the ancient Via Labicana. Constantine built it in 326-330 as his own tomb; it was then given to his mother Helena, who died in 330. The catacombs of Saints Marcellinus and Peter lie next to it. Walk out along Via del Pigneto and past Piazza della Marranella, the district's southern corner on the Casilina. 20 min.
More walks in Rome
- Ancient Rome core: Colosseum to the Ghetto
- Baroque centro: Spanish Steps to Campo de' Fiori
- Trastevere and the Gianicolo
- Monti and Celio: mosaics and layered churches
- Aventine, Testaccio and Ostiense
- Appia Antica: Porta San Sebastiano to Caecilia Metella
- Pincio, Villa Borghese and Villa Giulia
- Garbatella: the 1920s garden-city lotti
- Coppede and Via Nomentana: fairy-tale palazzi to Sant'Agnese
- Testaccio market to Monte dei Cocci and the Ostiense gasometer
