Gino Coppede's 1915-1927 fantasy quarter in residential Trieste, then up Via Nomentana to Villa Torlonia's park and the 4th-century mausoleum of Constantine's daughter at Sant'Agnese.
Best time: Morning light on the facades; Villa Torlonia closes at dusk
The route, stop by stop
- 1Piazza Buenos Aires
Start on the square; the quarter opens off Via Tagliamento. 2 min.
- 2Arco Coppede
The great arch over Via Dora joining two palazzi, with a wrought-iron chandelier hanging underneath and deliberately asymmetric decoration; a Madonna and Child shrine stands just before it. 10 min.
- 3Quartiere Coppede
The Fountain of the Frogs (1924) in the centre of the quarter. The arch over the doorway at Piazza Mincio 2 copies a set from the 1914 film Cabiria. Dario Argento filmed scenes here. 10 min.
- 4Villini delle Fate
The "fairy villas" on Piazza Mincio, one of the named groups of buildings in the Coppede quarter. 10 min.
- 5Palazzo del Ragno
Via Tanaro: the "Spider Palace", another of the quarter's named buildings. 5 min.
- 6Villa Torlonia and Casina delle Civette
Along Via Nomentana to the Torlonia park and the Casina delle Civette. 30 min.
- 7Mausoleum of Santa Costanza
4th-century mausoleum built for Constantina, daughter of Constantine, later a church; inside the Sant'Agnese complex. 15 min.
- 8Sant'Agnese fuori le Mura
Pope Honorius I's 7th-century basilica above the catacombs of Saint Agnes, with the apse mosaic of Agnes and two popes largely intact. 15 min.
More walks in Rome
- Ancient Rome core: Colosseum to the Ghetto
- Baroque centro: Spanish Steps to Campo de' Fiori
- Trastevere and the Gianicolo
- Monti and Celio: mosaics and layered churches
- Aventine, Testaccio and Ostiense
- Appia Antica: Porta San Sebastiano to Caecilia Metella
- Pincio, Villa Borghese and Villa Giulia
- Pigneto and Torpignattara: Porta Maggiore to the Mausoleum of Helena
- Garbatella: the 1920s garden-city lotti
- Testaccio market to Monte dei Cocci and the Ostiense gasometer