Bona Ventura

Walking routes · Stockholm

Gamla stan beyond the crowds: Riddarholmen, Stortorget and the back lanes

Start on Riddarholmen, the quiet islet of royal tombs and noble palaces, then cross into Gamla stan and keep to the parallel streets east of Västerlånggatan: Stortorget, the stair alley of Mårten Trotzigs gränd, Prästgatan, the medieval merchants' street Köpmangatan and Österlånggatan, ending on the Skeppsbron quay facing the harbour.

Best time: Early morning or a weekday evening, when the old town is quiet; the narrowest alley is closed between midnight and 06:00

The route, stop by stop

  1. 1
    Riddarholmen Church

    The church of the former medieval Greyfriars monastery and the burial church of most Swedish monarchs, from Gustavus Adolphus to Gustaf V. Its congregation was dissolved in 1807; today it is used only for burials and commemorations. 15 min.

    The burial church of Swedish monarchs, consecrated around 1292 as a Franciscan friary church: Stockholm's oldest preserved building. Every king from Gustav II Adolf (d. 1632) to…

  2. 2
    Evert Taubes terrass

    The stone terrace on the west side of Riddarholmen, laid out in the early 1960s. Willy Gordon's 1990 bronze of the troubadour Evert Taube points across Riddarfjärden to Södermalm, with City Hall behind him; Christian Berg's sculpture Solbåten (1966) stands at the south-west corner. 10 min.

  3. 3
    Birger Jarl's Tower

    The defensive tower on the north-west corner of Riddarholmen. Parts of the lower walls date from the 1520s-1530s; the name comes from a 17th-century myth about the city's founding. 5 min outside.

    A round defence tower on Riddarholmen's north-west corner. An 18th-century myth dated it to Birger Jarl's 1200s, but a 1917 study of its bricks showed it was built from the Klara…

  4. 4
    House of Nobility

    The House of Nobility, the seat of the Swedish nobility's corporation; Axel Oxenstierna bought the plot in 1641 for a "magnificent house to the glory of the Estates", and the building took decades to finish. 10 min outside.

    The 17th-century palace of the Swedish nobility, which still owns it, counted among the finest buildings in northern Europe. The Session Hall walls carry 2,326 painted coats of…

  5. 5
    Stortorget

    Stockholm's oldest square, site of the Stockholm Bloodbath of November 1520 and of the city's first pharmacy (1575). The old Stock Exchange (Börshuset) has housed the Nobel Prize Museum since 2001; the Christmas market is held here every year. 15 min.

    Stockholm's oldest square, recorded in 1420 and the scene of the Stockholm Bloodbath in 1520. The colourful houses on its west side are the most photographed facades in the city…

  6. 6
    Mårten Trotzigs gränd

    The narrowest street in Stockholm: 37 steps up from Västerlånggatan and Järntorget to Prästgatan, tapering to 90 cm. Named after the merchant Mårten Trotzig (1559-1617), who had his shop here. 5 min.

    Stockholm's narrowest lane, only 90 cm wide: 37 steps climbing from Västerlånggatan to Prästgatan, named after a German merchant who settled here in 1581. Walk up it to…

  7. 7
    Prästgatan

    The quiet "Priest's Street" running parallel to Västerlånggatan, mentioned as Prästegathen in 1586. Walk north past Tyska kyrkan, whose crypt is still used by the German parish, with Sunday services in German. 15 min.

  8. 8
    Järnpojke

    Liss Eriksson's Iron Boy (1967), a 15 cm figure called "Sweden's smallest public monument", in the backyard of the Finnish Church (Bollhustäppan). People leave coins and pat his head for luck, and knitted scarves and caps have been made for him. 5 min.

  9. 9
    Köpmangatan

    The medieval "Merchant Street", first named in 1323, which linked Stortorget with the fish market outside the eastern wall. 10 min.

  10. 10
    Österlånggatan

    The old street outside the eastern city wall. Look for the statue of St George and the Dragon on Köpmanbrinken, and Den Gyldene Freden at no. 51, a restaurant since 1722 that Guinness lists as one of the oldest with an unaltered interior. 15 min.

  11. 11
    Skeppsbron

    Finish on the quay that runs from Strömbron in front of the Royal Palace south to Slussen, facing the harbour. 10 min.

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