Bona Ventura

Walking routes · Madrid

Madrid de los Austrias: Sol to the Royal Palace

The Habsburg core in one line: Km 0, the churrería, Plaza Mayor via a calamari counter, the oldest square in town, nuns' biscuits, then the cathedral and palace.

Best time: Morning (palace opens early), or late afternoon ending at Debod for sunset

The route, stop by stop

  1. 1
    Puerta del Sol

    Km 0 plaque and the Bear and Strawberry Tree; 10 min.

    The city's central square: the Km 0 plaque from which Spain's radial roads are measured, the Bear and Strawberry Tree statue, and the clock whose chimes mark the New Year's…

  2. 2
    Chocolatería San Ginés

    Churros if it's morning; 20 min.

    Churros and thick hot chocolate since 1894; Madrileños go at dawn after a night out, which is when it is at its best.

  3. 3
    Plaza Mayor

    Walk through, don't sit at the terraces; 10 min.

    The 17th-century arcaded square (1580-1619, rebuilt after the 1790 fire) with 237 balconies; the stage for bullfights, coronations and the Inquisition's autos-da-fé.

  4. 4
    Bar La Campana

    Calamari sandwich at the bar; 15 min.

    The benchmark bocadillo de calamares (fried squid in a crusty roll) just off Plaza Mayor; locals pack the bar and you watch the squid being fried to order.

  5. 5
    Plaza de la Villa

    Oldest civic square; 10 min.

    The city's oldest square, with the 15th-century Torre de los Lujanes, the Casa de Cisneros and the 17th-century Casa de la Villa, the former town hall.

  6. 6
    Convento de las Carboneras (nuns' biscuits)

    Buy biscuits from the nuns' turntable; 10 min.

    Cloistered nuns bake and sell biscuits and pastries through a revolving turntable so you never see them; recommended by Madrid locals as a secret sweet stop 3 minutes from Plaza…

  7. 7
    Almudena Cathedral

    Free church; 20 min.

    Madrid's cathedral took 110 years to finish (1883-1993): neo-Gothic crypt, neo-Classical exterior and a colourful modern ceiling. King Felipe VI married Letizia here in 2004.

  8. 8
    Royal Palace of Madrid

    State rooms with official ticket; 90 min.

    The largest royal palace in Western Europe (3,418 rooms, built 1735-1755) with Tiepolo ceilings, the Royal Armoury and the only complete Stradivarius string quintet.

  9. 9
    Campo del Moro Gardens

    Optional: palace gardens, enter from the river side; 30 min.

    The Royal Palace's back garden, with peacocks and the best ground-level view of the palace façade; the entrance is on the river side, so few visitors find it.

Walking directions

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