The Literary Quarter at eating pace: Lope de Vega's house, churros, the Antón Martín market, a cheap set lunch and sherry at La Venencia.
Best time: Late morning to lunch (Mon-Sat)
The route, stop by stop 1 La Casa del Abuelo Garlic prawns; 20 min.
Since 1906, one dish: sizzling garlic prawns (gambas al ajillo), washed down with their own sweet wine.
2 Lope de Vega House Museum Booked guided visit; 45 min.
The Golden Age playwright's actual house (1610-1635), furnished as in his day, with his small walled garden, in the heart of the Literary Quarter.
3 Chocolat Churros to order; 20 min.
A small neighbourhood churrería in the Literary Quarter frying churros and porras to order, without the San Ginés queue.
4 Mercado de Antón Martín Market stalls and food counters; 30 min.
A real neighbourhood market where fishmongers and butchers share the floor with small food bars (Japanese, Italian, fusion); locals shop and eat here, unlike the tourist-only San…
5 La Sanabresa Menú del día; 45 min.
A no-frills casa de comidas since 1964 with a cheap menú del día; neighbourhood workers queue for its home cooking, cocido on set days.
6 Taberna La Dolores Caña and gilda; 15 min.
Tiled taberna near the Prado famous for well-poured draught beer and banderillas (pickle skewers), full of neighbours standing at the bar.
7 La Venencia Sherry, no photos; 20 min.
Sherry-only tavern (since 1922) that has barely changed: dry sherry from the barrel, tabs chalked on the bar, olives and mojama. No photos allowed.
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