A small 1790s chapel whose whole dome Goya painted with the miracle of Saint Anthony, and where Goya himself is buried. Free and almost empty, because visitors never leave the…
A cavernous Asturian cider house next to Goya's chapel: roast chicken, chorizo in cider and bottles of sidra; Madrid families have come here for generations.
The Royal Palace's back garden, with peacocks and the best ground-level view of the palace façade; the entrance is on the river side, so few visitors find it.
The riverside park built over the buried M-30 motorway: 10 km of paths, playgrounds, historic bridges and summer water fountains that local kids use as a beach.
The old city slaughterhouse turned into a huge free arts centre with a cinema, theatre and weekend markets beside Madrid Río; locals come for exhibitions and the terraces…