Free city museum and Baroque doorway, the Romanticism garden, vermouth at 1890s taverns, an aristocrat's palace-museum and sunset at the Egyptian temple.
Best time: Afternoon, finishing at the Temple of Debod for sunset
Free city museum behind the most ornate Baroque doorway in Madrid (Pedro de Ribera's former hospice), with a huge 1830 scale model of the city by León Gil de Palacio.
A furnished 19th-century townhouse that shows how the Madrid bourgeoisie lived in the age of Larra, with a garden café that locals use as a secret retreat.
A 19th-century marquis's palace left exactly as he furnished it, crammed with paintings, armour and a gilded ballroom; Madrileños love it as the city's most intact aristocratic…