A walk through Madrid's 20th-century intellectual heights: Rafael Bergamín's 1933-36 rationalist garden colony of El Viso, the Residencia de Estudiantes where Lorca, Dalí and Buñuel lived, the natural history museum in the 1880s Palacio de las Artes y la Industria, the collector's palace of Lázaro Galdiano and the free Fundación Juan March, ending in the 1882 iron market of the Barrio de Salamanca. Start at Metro República Argentina (L6) or Gregorio Marañón; end at Metro Serrano or Velázquez.
Best time: Tuesday to Friday from 11:00, so you catch Lázaro Galdiano free 14:00-15:00 and the Mercado de la Paz before 20:00 (Sat closes 14:30)
The route, stop by stop
- 1Colonia El Viso
Bergamín's 1933-36 colony of two-storey houses, a key example of Madrid rationalism inspired by Adolf Loos, once home to intellectuals and today the richest barrio in Spain. The barrio is bounded by the Castellana, Concha Espina, Príncipe de Vergara and María de Molina; walk the low-rise streets of the old colony. 20 min.
- 2Residencia de Estudiantes
Founded in 1910, Spain's first cultural centre: Lorca, Dalí, Buñuel and Severo Ochoa lived here, Unamuno and Juan Ramón Jiménez visited. Declared a monument on 10 June 2025. Free exhibitions Mon-Sat 11:00-20:00, Sun 11:00-15:00; a recreated historic room in the twin pavilions. Calle del Pinar 21-23. 30 min.
- 3National Museum of Natural Sciences
Founded by Carlos III in 1771, now in the Palacio de las Artes y la Industria begun in 1882. EUR 7 (reduced 3.50), free Sundays 17:00-20:00; Tue-Fri 10:00-17:00, weekends and holidays 10:00-20:00, closed Mondays. 45 min.
- 4Lázaro Galdiano Museum
The collector's palace of Parque Florido, Serrano 122, open since 1951: Bosch's St John the Baptist, Goya's Witches' Sabbath painted for El Capricho, El Greco, Zurbarán. EUR 8, free Tue-Fri 14:00-15:00; Tue-Fri 09:30-15:00 and 16:30-19:30, weekends 09:30-15:00, closed Mondays. 60 min.
- 5Fundación Juan March
José Luis Picardo's 1975 building at Castelló 77 with a sculpture garden; free exhibitions and concerts, Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00, Sun 10:00-14:00, plus a café with a terrace. 30 min.
- 6Casa Dani
Inside the Mercado de la Paz (Ayala 28), an iron market of 1882 whose stalls supply top Madrid restaurants; Casa Dani's tortilla is one locals cross town for. Market Mon-Fri 09:00-20:00, Sat 09:00-14:30, closed Sunday. 30 min.
More walks in Madrid
- Madrid de los Austrias: Sol to the Royal Palace
- Paseo del Arte and the Retiro
- Food graze: Sol, La Latina and Lavapiés
- Barrio de las Letras: sherry, churros and a market lunch
- Malasaña, Conde Duque and Debod sunset
- Usera: Madrid's Chinatown food walk
- Madrid Río: Goya's chapel to Matadero
- Chamberí castizo: Sorolla, the ghost station and Plaza de Olavide
- Sunday in the Rastro and Lavapiés: flea market, vermú and corralas
- The Retiro's quiet side to the Quinta de la Fuente del Berro
- Across the Toledo bridge to San Isidro: the saint's spring, hermitage and cemetery
