Madrid's own pilgrimage route: from the Vistillas viewpoint and San Francisco el Grande down to the 1827 Puerta de Toledo, across Pedro de Ribera's baroque Puente de Toledo (1719-24) with its statues of San Isidro and Santa María de la Cabeza, and up to the Carabanchel bank where madrileños have drunk from San Isidro's miraculous spring for centuries. The 1724-style hermitage, the spring and the Sacramental de San Isidro (1811), the oldest surviving cemetery in Madrid with its sculpture-filled 4th patio, sit side by side above the Parque de San Isidro, where the May romería is held. Downhill most of the way, with one climb at the end. Start at Metro La Latina; end at Metro Marqués de Vadillo (L5).
Best time: Tuesday to Sunday 10:00-14:00 (Ermita hours; the cemetery and spring close at 15:00); not in August, when the Ermita is closed. On 15 May the romería fills the Pradera but the cemetery is closed
The route, stop by stop
- 1Las Vistillas
Small garden at Calle de la Morería 12 named for its views over the Manzanares and Casa de Campo; a traditional ground for verbenas and popular fiestas, with terraces in good weather for sunset and the statue of La Violetera (Celia Gámez). 10 min.
- 2Royal Basilica of San Francisco el Grande
The great domed basilica on Calle de San Buenaventura, on the way down. 15 min outside, longer inside.
- 3Puerta de Toledo
Neo-Roman triumphal arch by Antonio López Aguado, finished in 1827 to mark Fernando VII's arrival in Madrid; on the river side, sculptures by Salvatierra and Barba. 5 min.
- 4Toledo Bridge
Pedro de Ribera's baroque bridge of 1719-24, nine granite arches, with two little temples holding statues of San Isidro and Santa María de la Cabeza by Juan Ron (restored 2023). Pedestrian only, part of Madrid Río. 15 min.
- 5Hermitage of San Isidro
Hexagonal-domed hermitage first documented in 1499, rebuilt in 1528 by Empress Isabel of Portugal and in 1724, burned in 1936 and rebuilt 1940-41. On 15 May the open-air mass and romería take place here. Free, Tue-Sun 10:00-14:00, closed in August. Paseo de la Ermita del Santo 72. 15 min.
- 6Fuente de San Isidro
The spring the saint is said to have struck from the ground to give water to his master Iván de Vargas; madrileños drink from it at the romería. Open daily 09:00-15:00, free. 10 min.
- 7Cementerio de San Isidro
The Sacramental de San Isidro, built in 1811, is the oldest cemetery still standing in Madrid; the 4th patio (Purísima Concepción) is an open-air museum of 19th- and 20th-century funerary sculpture and pantheons of the aristocracy. Open daily 09:00-15:00, closed 15 May. Only the Sacramental's own guided tours are allowed for groups (EUR 8, reduced 6, book by email). Be discreet: it is still in use. 40 min.
- 8Parque de San Isidro
Carabanchel's second-largest park, with a palm garden, a botanical path and big tree-lined meadows; in mid-May it becomes the fairground of the fiestas. 15 min.
More walks in Madrid
- Madrid de los Austrias: Sol to the Royal Palace
- Paseo del Arte and the Retiro
- Food graze: Sol, La Latina and Lavapiés
- Barrio de las Letras: sherry, churros and a market lunch
- Malasaña, Conde Duque and Debod sunset
- Usera: Madrid's Chinatown food walk
- Madrid Río: Goya's chapel to Matadero
- Chamberí castizo: Sorolla, the ghost station and Plaza de Olavide
- Sunday in the Rastro and Lavapiés: flea market, vermú and corralas
- El Viso to the Mercado de la Paz: the Silver Age and quiet museums
- The Retiro's quiet side to the Quinta de la Fuente del Berro
