The Retiro's quiet side to the Quinta de la Fuente del Berro

Skip the rowing lake: this walk starts at the Casón, the Buen Retiro palace's surviving ballroom, crosses the park past the two Reina Sofía exhibition palaces, the Fallen Angel fountain and the 1915 rose garden, then leaves by the east side for the Quinta de la Fuente del Berro, a hilly 13-hectare landscape garden on the site of Felipe IV's Quinta de Miraflores, with Bécquer's monument, Pushkin's statue and ponds. Finish with mini bocadillos de calamares at Taberna La Tienta. Start at Metro Retiro or Banco de España; end at Metro O'Donnell (L6).

Best time: Weekday morning (the Casón library opens only on weekdays); the Rosaleda is at its best in May and June

The route, stop by stop

1. 1
   Casón del Buen Retiro

   Built in 1637, one of two survivors of the Buen Retiro palace; it housed the Guernica until 1992 and is now the Prado's library. Free entry with ID at Alfonso XII 28 to see Luca Giordano's fresco on the vault of the old ballroom (Oct-mid Dec: Mon and Wed 08:30-17:00, Tue and Thu 08:30-14:30, Fri 08:30-14:00). 20 min.

2. 2
   Palacio de Velázquez

   1883 brick-and-glass exhibition hall used by the Reina Sofía for free shows. 20 min.

   An 1883 brick-and-glass exhibition hall in the Retiro used by the Reina Sofía for free shows; far fewer people than the Crystal Palace next door.

3. 3
   Crystal Palace (Retiro)

   The 1887 glass conservatory beside its pond, another free Reina Sofía venue. 15 min.

   An 1887 glass-and-iron conservatory by a pond, now used by the Reina Sofía for free contemporary installations.

4. 4
   El Ángel Caído

   Ricardo Bellver's Fallen Angel, sculpted in 1878 for the Paris Exposition and set on Francisco Jareño's fountain in 1885; often called the only public monument to the Devil. 10 min.

5. 5
   La Rosaleda del Retiro

   Rose garden laid out in 1915 by the city's head gardener Cecilio Rodríguez, more than 4,000 rose bushes, peak in May-June. Daily 10:00-18:00 Oct-Mar, 10:00-20:00 Apr-Sep. 20 min.

6. 6
   Quinta de la Fuente del Berro

   Over 13 hectares of slopes, stone steps, cascades and small ponds on the land of Felipe IV's Quinta de Miraflores (an amusement park in 1900), with monuments to Bécquer and Pushkin and a surviving palacete. Free, 06:30-22:00 Oct-Mar, to 24:00 Apr-Sep; may close in weather alerts. Entrance at Enrique D'Almonte 1. 40 min.

   Felipe IV's former Quinta de Miraflores, now a 13-hectare landscape garden of winding paths, rustic stone steps, ponds and a small palace, the remains of its royal past. It also…

7. 7
   Taberna La Tienta

   A 1952 neighbourhood tavern with mini calamari sandwiches and vinegared sardines, a short walk north of the park. 30 min.

   Bullfighting taberna near Las Ventas since 1952, recently renovated, in tourist-free Fuente del Berro (The Infatuation, Guía Repsol).

Walking directions

More walks in Madrid

• Madrid de los Austrias: Sol to the Royal Palace2.5 km · 3 h
• Paseo del Arte and the Retiro4 km · 5 h
• Food graze: Sol, La Latina and Lavapiés3.2 km · 3 h 30 min
• Barrio de las Letras: sherry, churros and a market lunch2 km · 2 h 30 min
• Malasaña, Conde Duque and Debod sunset4 km · 3 h 30 min
• Usera: Madrid's Chinatown food walk2 km · 2 h 30 min
• Madrid Río: Goya's chapel to Matadero5.5 km · 3 h
• Chamberí castizo: Sorolla, the ghost station and Plaza de Olavide5 km · 3 h
• Sunday in the Rastro and Lavapiés: flea market, vermú and corralas2.2 km · 3 h 30 min
• El Viso to the Mercado de la Paz: the Silver Age and quiet museums3.1 km · 3 h 30 min
• Across the Toledo bridge to San Isidro: the saint's spring, hermitage and cemetery4.2 km · 3 h